Fashion Designer Invests in Black Talent With Scholarship Fund, Mentoring
July 09 2020 - 9:29AM
Dow Jones News
By Ray A. Smith
Fashion designers, labels and schools are ramping up efforts to
strengthen the pipeline of Black talent as the industry, pressed by
a national reckoning over race, scrambles to respond to criticism
of its lack of diversity in studios and executive offices.
The goal is to lay the groundwork for professional opportunities
earlier by targeting Black high-school and college students who
aspire to work in fashion, and build a deep bench of talent to help
ensure more-diverse workplaces.
Virgil Abloh, one of fashion's most successful Black designers,
plans to announce Thursday a scholarship fund for Black fashion
students. Founder of the popular label Off-White and artistic
director of menswear at Louis Vuitton, Mr. Abloh raised $1 million
to benefit scholarships for Black students through the fund, which
will be managed in partnership with the Fashion Scholarship Fund,
an education and workforce-development nonprofit.
"With the awakening that has happened in the last month, it's
time to turn the volume up with solutions," Mr. Abloh said. The
fund will help "change the fashion industry to give more
opportunity to young Black kids that are like myself."
The fund marks the latest initiative focused on future
generations of Blacks pursuing fashion careers. Gucci last month
announced the first class of its North America Changemakers
Scholars, a scholarship program. The 20 students -- all people of
color -- will receive up to $20,000 as well as mentorship and
internship opportunities at Gucci America. The Council of Fashion
Designers of America said it would create mentorship and internship
programs for Black students and recent graduates.
Fashion schools, which have long had low rates of Black student
enrollment, also are introducing or beefing up scholarship and
mentorship programs for Black students.
In June, the Fashion Institute of Technology said it was working
to develop a scholarship in the name of George Floyd to help it
recruit and support more minority students. The Savannah College of
Art and Design, where Blacks represented 10.17% of undergraduates
and 8.22% of graduate students in the 2019-2020 academic year,
recently added 15 endowed scholarships for Black students. All have
been awarded in the past two weeks.
Parsons School of Design in New York last month announced plans
for funding, mentorship and professional opportunities to support
the creative work and talents of Black students and alumni. "We
can't simply wait to see who applies as seniors in high school to
our fashion design program, we have to do our part of helping
high-school students, junior high-school students, grade-school
students see these careers and futures for themselves," said
executive dean Rachel Schreiber. The school has had diversity
initiatives for years but recent events prompted a focus on Blacks
specifically. The school wasn't able to release demographics of its
students, a spokesman said.
Some experts say the diversity problem is bigger than a lacking
pipeline. "We've been talking about a talent bench of people for 50
years and counting, so people could be excused a little skepticism
if that is the reason why the fashion industry is claiming it has
been unable to diversify its ranks," said Pamela Newkirk, author of
the 2019 book "Diversity, Inc.: The Failed Promise of a
Billion-Dollar Business." "It's not because there haven't been
enough scholarships. It's because there hasn't been the will to
diversify" when making hiring decisions.
When Louis Vuitton menswear tapped Mr. Abloh as its artistic
director in 2018, it marked the second time in recent years, after
Olivier Rousteing's appointment at Balmain in 2011, that a Black
person helmed design duties at a luxury fashion house. Rihanna, now
at her own LVMH-backed brand, makes three. Throughout his career,
Mr. Abloh has used his influence to hire and promote other young
Black talents while sending messages about Black culture in his
shows. In January, his Off-White runway show included a shirt that
read "I Support Young Black Businesses."
The fund is a "conscious decision to slowly start turning up the
volume on my advocacy that I've started early in my career," he
said. The designer received criticism for appearing to be
dismissive on social media about the Black Lives Matter movement.
He subsequently apologized for his posts and attempted to clarify
his intentions. He said the fund isn't a knee-jerk response to
critics and that his long advocacy record should speak for
itself.
The Virgil Abloh(TM) "Post-Modern" Scholarship Fund offers
support to a range of schools, including historically Black
colleges and universities and fashion schools. The name signifies
that students will receive not only funds, but also access to
career-support services and mentoring.
In addition to his own donation, Mr. Abloh raised funds from
companies he has partnered with, including Louis Vuitton, Evian,
online fashion retailer Farfetch, and New Guards Group, a holding
company that backs Off-White. Farfetch acquired New Guards Group
last year.
Write to Ray A. Smith at ray.smith@wsj.com
(END) Dow Jones Newswires
July 09, 2020 09:14 ET (13:14 GMT)
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