Elf Ernie Keebler and crew will report to Italians
By Micah Maidenberg and Eric Sylvers
This article is being republished as part of our daily
reproduction of WSJ.com articles that also appeared in the U.S.
print edition of The Wall Street Journal (April 16, 2019).
In a sign of the times, baker Ernie Keebler is getting a new
overseas boss.
The legendary figure has for nearly a half-century run a
Kellogg's factory said to churn out some of America's most-known
cookies. The plant, called Hollow Tree, is part of a sale to an
Italian confectionery giant.
Mr. Keebler isn't worried about layoffs or a factory closure --
a perk of being fictional. Even so, he and co-workers wait
anxiously for what comes out of the recently announced $1.3 billion
purchase of Keebler and other snack brands from Kellogg Co. by
Italy's Ferrero Group.
The Keebler matriarch, who has seen her share of changes, is
putting on a brave face for Florence in accounting, Elmer the
apprentice and the rest. Kellogg's provided written responses from
the Hollow Tree crew to questions from The Wall Street Journal.
"Naturally, a few of our elves were a bit nervous at the big
news," Ma Keebler said, through a Kellogg's spokesperson. "I've
been working the Magic Oven for a long time, and I assured the
elves we will be just fine!"
Under various owners, the workers at Hollow Tree have been
credited with making Keebler-brand cookies, including Chips Deluxe,
E.L. Fudge Elfwich and Fudge Stripes. British baking company United
Biscuits bought Keebler in 1974 and sold it in 1996. Kellogg
acquired Keebler five years later.
"The elves have the same vibe as the Seven Dwarfs," said Bob
Welke, a former creative executive at Leo Burnett, the advertising
agency that gave birth to the elves in 1969. "Sometimes they
fumbled their way to victory, but they always did the right
thing."
Though Hollow Tree will end up a small corner of the Ferrero
empire, its diminutive workers punch well above their weight among
Keebler customers.
"I don't care if you're 3 or 70, that's what it's about, the
elves in the tree," said Teresa Weese, a bus driver in Columbus,
Ohio.
Ferrero said it planned to invest in Keebler: "We intend to
offer employment to every elf and human directly affected by this
acquisition, whether they work their magic in the Hollow Tree or
elsewhere."
Naturally, the takeover is a topic of conversation among
Buckets, Fast Eddie, Zack, Zoot, Leonardo and the rest of the team,
from the back office to the factory's Rube Goldberg-style assembly
line.
"We're no strangers to change," said the elf Chloe, an innovator
and recipe taste tester.
Ernie Keebler said Doc Keebler was "practicing and perfecting
his Italian baking techniques." Even Ma Keebler, he said, "loves
hazelnuts and sure has some big ideas for new cookies."
Products have come and gone over the years. Some longtime
Keebler fans have campaigned on Facebook for Keebler to resume
making Pizzaria chips and Magic Middles cookies.
With luck, Hollow Tree may avoid the fate of other legacy
factories lost in the wake of the global economy.
The Keeblers are fortunate to be in the cookie business rather
than say, steel or textiles, experts say. Domestic bakery
production has mostly remained in the U.S. Manufacturers want to be
close to customers because of the relatively short shelf life of
baked goods.
One exception was the decision of Mondelez International Inc. to
move production of Oreo cookies from Chicago to Mexico.
Likely no confectioners in the U.S. or abroad can compete with
Hollow Tree and its bespoke production techniques, such as using
rocketry to color chocolate chips, according to Keebler TV
commercials. The factory has more than a dozen employees, including
relatives.
Its new owners, too, are a longtime family operation.
In 1946, sweet-shop owner Pietro Ferrero founded his namesake
company in the northeast Italian town of Alba. To make up for a
shortage of cocoa during World War II, he had experimented with
mixing hazelnuts and chocolate.
The smell of chocolate still drifts the half mile from the
Ferrero factory to central Alba if the wind is blowing in the right
direction.
Mr. Ferrero's son, Michele, is credited with inventing Nutella,
the chocolate-hazelnut spread, as well as Tic Tac candies. The
younger Ferrero was said to have spent five years testing the shape
of what became the foil-wrapped Ferrero Rocher chocolates.
Michele Ferrero's son Giovanni took over the company in 2011. He
has since engineered acquisitions in the U.S., including Baby Ruth
and Butterfinger candy bars. Annual revenue surpassed $12 billion
in the last fiscal year.
Old-timer Doc Keebler sounded unconcerned about any disruptions
at the Hollow Tree factory. "What changes?" he said.
The Keeblers, he noted, were still making good cookies.
Write to Micah Maidenberg at micah.maidenberg@wsj.com and Eric
Sylvers at eric.sylvers@wsj.com
(END) Dow Jones Newswires
April 16, 2019 02:47 ET (06:47 GMT)
Copyright (c) 2019 Dow Jones & Company, Inc.
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