Ray-Ban's Owner Enters Crisis With Blurry Vision -- Heard on the Street
May 05 2020 - 8:57AM
Dow Jones News
By Carol Ryan
This year's economic slump could shine a harsh light on
dysfunctional governance at the company behind Ray-Ban, Oakley and
other sunglasses brands. But shareholders will struggle to do much
about it.
EssilorLuxottica said Tuesday that sales in the first quarter of
2020 fell by 11% at constant exchange rates compared with the same
period a year earlier -- weaker than analysts were expecting.
That said, it is clearer than ever why French lensmaker Essilor
and Italian sunglasses business Luxottica, which struck a troubled
merger in 2017, are better off together. The prescription lenses
division that generates 70% of group revenue is more defensive than
the sunglasses unit, which tends to shine when the economy is
strong. Delivery of cost savings from the combination also looks to
be on track.
A power struggle between Luxottica's formidable founder,
Leonardo Del Vecchio, and Essilor Chairman Hubert Sagnières rumbles
on, however. The departure of EssilorLuxottica's co-CEO and co-CFO
in March was the perfect opportunity to simplify the management
team. Instead, EssilorLuxottica will stick with its cumbersome
setup of two chairmen, two chief executives and two finance
bosses.
Uncertainty about who is really in charge is unhelpful given the
challenges ahead. The second quarter will be more difficult than
the first. EssilorLuxottica makes just 5% of group sales in China,
according to Bernstein estimates. Low exposure to the world's most
important market for luxury goods means it won't get much benefit
from any recovery in Chinese spending. With travel flows depressed,
the airport-dependent sunglasses business could remain a drag for
years.
Another question that would benefit from strong leadership
concerns EssilorLuxottica's acquisition of smaller rival
GrandVision. The target's shares are now trading roughly 15% below
the takeover offer made last year, suggesting doubts about the deal
going ahead or the terms.
EssilorLuxottica already has an activist investor on its case:
Daniel Loeb's Third Point disclosed a stake in the business late
last year. However, demands from hedge funds will be easier to
ignore during the crisis. Management may argue that now isn't the
time to bring in a new CEO, despite promising investors to hire in
2020.
EssilorLuxottica's shares, down 20% this year, have now lost
most of the gains made since the merger was announced at the
beginning of 2017. Investors who see that as an opportunity put
themselves at the mercy not just of a souring economy, but also
EssilorLuxottica's warring bosses.
Write to Carol Ryan at carol.ryan@wsj.com
(END) Dow Jones Newswires
May 05, 2020 08:42 ET (12:42 GMT)
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